Homemade Cat Litter facemask!

While browsing the net, I've come across this interesting article called "Homemade 'Cat Litter' Mask for All Skin Types".


Isnt it funny? Is it for real? This is the first time I heard about such thing.

"The beauty expert (Diane Irons, the author of several beauty books) swore cat litter is made of the same ingredients as special clays found in $100 spa facials. We tried this and loved it."

INGREDIENTS:

* 1 bag cat litter (must be marked '100 Percent Natural Clay')
* Water
* Drops of your favorite essential oil

PREPARATION:

(1)Mix in a couple tablespoons of the cat litter with water and drops of oil (we find the oil helps make the experience somehow less kitty litter-ish)

(2)Apply mask to face

(3)Wash off after 15 minutes.

Sounds interesting to me..but I will need some time to venture it!

Miaows!

Info source: www.beauty.about.com
From Julyne Derrick

Trimming the Claws

I dun really fancy trimming the claws, coz my cats seem not to like it that much..and I'll usually end up in minor love scratches from my kitties..but no can do !

This time around, I'll be sharing some tips for trimming the claws for your feline, as per requested by a member named Marzie though. Thanks for the topic request yea! Here's for you...



Firstly, you'll need some basic tools for the trimming and some basic techniques during the trimming.

Gently stroke your cat's paws often, getting her used to having her paws held before you attempt trimming. Be sure to reward your cat with a special food treat-one that she receives only during claw trimming or some other grooming procedure-during or immediately after trimming. The best time to trim your cat's claws is when she is relaxed or sleepy. Never try to give a pedicure right after a stressful experience or an energetic round of play. Please!!

Your cat should be resting comfortably on your lap, the floor, or a table. Hold a paw in one hand and press a toe pad gently to extend the claw.



Referring to the pic above:

Notice the pink tissue (the quick) on the inside of the claw. Avoid the quick when you trim the claw; cutting into it will cause pain and bleeding.

Remove the sharp tip below the quick (away from the toe), clipping about halfway between the end of the quick and the tip of claw. If your cat becomes impatient, take a break and try again later, or even days after..

Many people hold the clippers at right angles to the nail, thus cutting across the nail. This tends to make the nail more subject to splitting or fraying. It is better to hold the clippers in a vertical position--that is, up and down, so that the claw is trimmed from bottom to top instead of across the nail. This position help prevent splitting.

If you accidentally clip into the quick, don't panic. The claw may bleed for a moment, but it will usually stop very quickly. Soothe your cat by speaking softly to her and stroking her head. If the bleeding hasn't stopped after a minute or so, try pat on styptic powder to help staunch the bleeding.

My personal tip:
I always clip the claws while my kitties are sleeping (a deep sleep, not a nap). It works every time !

If' your cat absolutely refuses to allow you to clip tier claws, the professional groomers and vets are always there for you :)

Miaowsss!!!

Info source: www.catscratching.com

Brushing Cat's Teeth

Here some tips for you, on how to brush your cat's teeth ( Do you brush 'em?)

Note :
Do not overly restrain your cat. Keep sessions short and positive. Be sure to praise your cat throughout the process.

(1)
First, have your cat get used to you putting things in her mouth. Dip your finger in tuna water, chicken broth, or other liquid your cat may like. Call your cat with a voice that means "treat" and let your cat lick the liquid off your finger. Then rub your soaked finger gently over your cat's gums and teeth. After a few sessions, your cat should actually look forward to this and you can move on.

(2)
Now, place a gauze around your finger. (You can again dip it in the tuna water or other liquid.) Gently rub the teeth in a circular motion with your gauzed finger. Repeat this for the number of sessions it takes your cat to feel comfortable with this procedure. Remember to praise her and keep an upbeat attitude.

(3)
After your cat is used to having the flavored gauze in her mouth, you are ready to start with a toothbrush, dental sponge, or pad. We need to get your cat used to the consistency of these items, especially the bristles on a brush. So, let your cat lick something tasty off of the brush or pad so she gets used to the texture.

(4)
Once your cat is used to the cleaning item you are going to use, we can add the toothpaste (or rinse). Pet toothpastes either have a poultry, malt, or other flavor so your cat will like the taste. Get your cat used to the flavor and consistency of the toothpaste. Let your cat lick some off your finger and then apply some to your cat's gumline with your finger. Praise your pet.


(5)
Now your cat is used to the toothbrush and toothpaste and you are ready to start brushing. Talk to your cat in a happy voice during the process and praise your cat at the end. At first, you may just want to brush one or both upper canine teeth (the large ones in the front of the mouth). These are the easiest teeth for you to get at and will give you some easier practice. As before, when your cat accepts having several teeth brushed, slowly increase the number of teeth you are brushing. Again, by making it appear to be a game, you both will have fun doing it.


I always have a hard time to brush my female cats than my male one. Dunno why? Hmmmm..


Info source : www.drsfostersmith.com

Feline's Asthma

I think my babybonn is having an asthma. But never brings her to the vet for diagnosis. Bad me :(

Feline asthma is a respiratory disease that is described as involving hyperreactivity, inflammation, and airflow obstruction of the airways that will spontaneously reverse or respond to treatment. In other words one of the characteristics of feline asthma is that it comes and goes and responds very well to steroid treatment. This article will explore the cause and treatment of this disease that appears to be very similar in both humans and felines.

Who gets it?
Cats between the ages of one and eight years are the most likely to develop asthma. Female cats are twice as likely to get it as male cats. It can occur any time of the year and there doesn't appear to be an increased incidence in any one season. It is estimated that less than one percent of all cats will ever develop feline asthma.

What are the symptoms?
The symptoms vary widely in severity and range from an occasional episode of coughing and wheezing to chronic and persistent coughing and wheezing. Cats often stand with their head stretched forward while they cough. Sometimes it may appear that they are coughing something up. In more severe attacks the cat may suffer from acute respiratory distress and open mouth breathing. In cases where the coughing is severe the cat may vomit after coughing spells.

What causes feline asthma?
There appear to be several different factors that may be involved in the development of feline asthma. Studies are currently being done to help further pinpoint the exact cause. It is felt that cats with feline asthma have a chronic inflammation of the tissues that line the bronchial walls in the lungs. The tissues may hyperreact to certain allergens, viruses, or infections, causing inflammation and increased mucous secretion. The increase in inflammation and secretions causes a decrease in the size of the airways and the symptoms worsen as a result. Allergens that have been linked to an increase in symptoms of asthmatic cats include smoke, insect and hair sprays, dust (flea powders, litter, carpet fresheners) feather pillows, perfumes, and Christmas trees. Other studies have shown that ragweed pollen may cause attacks. In addition some cats may have asthma attacks in response to food allergies, particularly fish based foods that may be higher in natural histamines. Bacterial infections, mycoplasma and viruses may also contribute to attacks of feline asthma.

How is feline asthma diagnosed?
Asthma is diagnosed through a combination of presenting symptoms, chest x-rays, and response to treatment. The chest x-rays can show inflammation of the bronchioles in the lungs. Improvement of the symptoms when injectable or oral steroids are used usually confirms the diagnosis if the symptoms and x-rays are indicative of feline asthma. Because there are many other diseases that can cause similar symptoms, a complete diagnostic workup is usually performed. A blood count and chemistry profile are usually performed in addition to a heartworm check. Occasionally a bacterial or mycoplasma culture is also performed.

How is it treated?
The mainstay of feline asthma treatment continues to be corticosteroid treatment. Most animals need to be on an every other day oral dose of steroids for the remainder of their lives. Others may only need treatment occasionally during flair ups. Long acting injectable steroids can be used in animals that are too difficult to pill. Because of the potential long-term side effects of steroids, the minimum effective dose given every other day is the goal with this treatment.

In addition to steroids, some veterinarians are using injectable or oral terbutaline to aid in bronchodilatation. Another drug that is also being used is cyproheptadine (Periactin), an antihistamine that blocks serotonin and smooth muscle contraction in the bronchioles.

There are also several drugs that are experimental and may be used in the future. Cyclosporine is an immunosuppressive drug that may have benefits in feline asthma. Another drug is Anti-Interleukin-5 Antibody. This experimental drug blocks the action of eosinophils and reduces clinical signs of feline asthma.

Info source :www.purinaone.com

My lovely Cats!

No topics to share yet..Just uploading pics of The Love of My Life :)

My Ultimate Hero - MiuMiu


My First Lady - Girl


My Last & Only - BabyBonn


LOVE YOU!

Cats - Life Stages

Hi all..its been a while since my last post here..too busy catchin up with my long holidaysss :)

I just wanna share with you, some general info on the cat's life stages.

Here are some normal behaviors for each cat life stage:

#Birth to 16 weeks
Just learning her way around, your kitten may be playful, but most likely shy. Click here for more information on how to care for your new kitten.

#16 weeks to 1 year
Your kitten will likely still be very playful and spunky. At approximately six months old, you should spay or neuter if you are not planning to breed your cat.

#1 to 8 years
Your young cat is in her prime. Remember your annual visits to the veterinarian.

#8 to 12 years
Your pre-geriatric cat may begin to slow down, but her behavior shouldn't change much.

#12+ years
Your cat is entering old age. You may begin to notice some health problems. Your cat will move slower if her joints begin to stiffen. She may also become easily irritated.


Final Thought
In any health-related issue, whenever you have concerns about your cat, consult your veterinarian. He or she is familiar with your cat and her medical history and has the professional skill and knowledge to identify and treat whatever might be the problem.

Info source : www.purina.com

Super Scoop Cat Litter

After reading so much reviews about this particular cat litter product, I decided to give a try.

After running out of litter supply last week, I get myself into buying this SuperScoop Litter. It claims to control odor and the hard clumping factor makes it easier to clean the box. Here's the outlines of this product:

-Power of Arm&Hammer baking soda destroys odors on contact
-Clumps hard & fast to lock in odors
-Advanced clumping system to remove the source of odors easily
-Just remove waste-no need to completely change litter each time

After using it for 1 week, i did a check list from the above said criteria. And yes, it does perform like they say it is. It smells fresh and hygienic and does control odor perfectly! I'm so glad that my cats tolerate well with it. I was quite worried that my cats wouldn't adapt well and will spray/poo randomly in my house.

Im very satisfied , and willing to ignore the hefty price tag for its quality. Thumbs up !

Tips on Cat Food

Holla catlovers!

This time around, I will share some tips/info on cat food. Basically, the basic nutritional needs for your cats are:
-Protein (from fish, poultry etc)
-Taurine (an amino acid)
-Certain Vitamins, Enzymes, Fatty Acids, Minerals
-Water

Cats dont really need carbohydrates, but carbo does exist as fillers for both canned/dry foods available for the cats.

I give my cats IAMS dry food; combined with WHISKAS canned food. They tolerate well with the combination. Its important for you to mix-and-match their meals from time to time, so they wont get bored over time.


Some facts on Dry Food VS Canned Food:

• While dry food is convenient, and can be left out for "free feeding,"
• Canned food contains water, and many cats do not drink water regularly
• To ensure that your cat gets the right amount of nutrients. That "near-perfect" food you've selected might be adding too little (or too much) of certain minerals and/or vitamins.
• Cats may actually become bored with the same food day in and day out, and simply quit eating. Face it, would you enjoy pizza morning, noon, and night, for years?
• To head off possible allergies to certain ingredients. Cats (like humans) develop allergies over a period of time. Although the incidence of food allergies in cats is rare, cat owners might want to err on the side of caution, particularly if their cats have shown evidence of allergies in the past.
• To prevent "food addictions." The Whole Cat Journal, in its October, 2001 issue, cites the case of a cat that was addicted to a particular flavor of a particular brand of cat food, right down to a specific factory and lot number! This kind of addiction can be difficult to deal with when that last can is gone, but can be easily avoided by feeding a variety of foods from the start.

Cheap Brands No Good?
Many owners do opt for cheap foods (as cheap as it can be) for their cats. For them, "hey! its only an animal!" But, if you're a serious cat-lover or pet owner, you'll think beyond that.Well, studies have shown that cats eat as much as they need to get the nutrients they require. Therefore, they might eat twice as much of that generously-carbohydrate-filled store brand to get the nutrients they need in a normal feeding of premium food. Second, the continued feeding of substandard foods over a period of years will heavily contribute to, or even cause, serious medical conditions that will require expensive veterinary care.


Avoid this on the label!

• Words such as "By-products," "meat and/or bone meal," "animal digest," most other descriptions including "digest" or "meal," and added sugars.
• Chemical preservatives, including BHA, BHT, ethoxyquin, and propyl gallate
• Corn meal as a filler
• Excess of carbohydrate "fillers" (Dry food can contain as much as 50 percent grain)

So, all in all..it all depends on you...Dry or Canned? Cheap or Expensive? Good or Bad? Hmmmmm......miaoowssss!

OKO Plus Cat Litter

OKO PLUS Cat Litter

I just wanna share with you here, the brand of Cat Litter that I'm using for my felines.

Its the wood-based, CAT'S BEST OKOPLUS.

Cat's Best Öko Plus is up to 3 x more efficient than conventional clumping kitty litter because the fluids are more effectively trapped in the capillary system of the natural plant fibers. Therefore Cat's Best Öko Plus can be used more sparingly and is thus also distinctly more economical than many other types of kitty litter.

The work of cleaning and filling the litterbox will be reduced to minimum because it stays in the box longer - thanks to its ability to trap odors without other irritating smells.

• Traps odors extremely well
• Can be composted and is 100% biodegradable:
  Cat's Best Öko Plus is currently the only kitty litter that can be composted and is biodegradable. Therefore you can empty the litter box right into the compost or the bio-waste container.
• 100 % pure plant fibers:
  Cat's Best Öko Plus uses the finest plant fibers, which come from untreated native fir timber. This timber continually accumulates; its use contributes to the maintenance of natural, healthy forests.
• Easier to transport
• Quality tested:
  Even the independent product test commission Stiftung Warentest evaluated Cat's Best Öko Plus in April 1998 as having best quality and an outstanding price/performance ratio. Of the 19 evaluated clumping kitty litters, Cat's Best Öko Plus was the only ecological litter among test winners.

Its currently available at Pets Wonderland branches (KL, that is) , and also through the Online Pet Store at www.buddypetwagon.com (not to mention, cheaper here). But its quite pricey though, selling at RM40.90 at Pets Wonderland, and it can last up to 1+-2months (I have 3 cats! So, its quite economical for me).

So, I've tested it. Have you????

Brushes for Your Kitty

I suppose, you must own one or more brushes for grooming your cat. But, do you even know what are the types and use of these brushes? Here are some info on these:

Basically, there are different types of brushes;

1. BRISTLE
This can be used on all coat types. Generally, the longer the hair coat, the longer bristles should be; and the coarser the hair, the stiffer bristles are needed.

2. WIRE-PIN
This is preferred choice, for pets with medium to long hair and those with curly or woolly coats.It comes with or without rubber-tipped ends.

3. SLICKER
This brush have fine wire bristles and are especially useful for removing mats and tangles.

4. FINE TOOTHED COMB
Combs are good for all but wiry coats. They are helpful at moving any small knots of hair. For more severe knots or mats, you need to use a matbreaker.

5. RUBBER CURRY
Made from rubber; effective at massaging the skin and removing dead hair. Excellent to use as final follow-up to a grooming session.

When brushing your kitty, be gentle and be patient. Be extra careful when removing the mats/tangles.

(Info Source : PetEducation.com)

I hate Cat Hairballs!

Hey y'all..its been a while since my last post..anyway, hope its never too late all of you a Happy New Year :)

Okay, my first entry for year 2007 is about Hairballs! I simply hate them.

First of all, do you all know what are hairballs?

Scientifically or technically (hmm..whatever..), a hairball is known as "trichobezoar"; "tricho" means hair and "benzoar" means accumulation of indigestible material forming a lump in the digestive tract.

Cats prize themselves as being clean. They lick to clean themselves; all the time. But to them, its not ust cleaning. Kitty is trying to remove loose hair, too. The tounge of a cat has tiny barbs taht pulls loose hair from its coat. Some hair will be ingested and some will move through the digestive tract with no problems.

But, if too much is ingested, will make your kitty sick. This resulting in heaving and strange noises through the cat's nose and throat; sounds like muted cough/sneeze. Your cat will feel uncomfortable and starts to comfort themselves by cleaning/licking..again..

To prevent hairballs, brush your kitty regularly. Cats do enjoy this. You can trim the fur occasionally for the long-haired cat, as they sheds more. Some vets do recommend to feed your cat with a litle amount of grass daily. I guess, this is why I always spotted outdoor cats nibbles on grass often...

There are also cat food formulated specifically to reduce/ control hairballs. I once try IAMS formula for hairball control, but my cat seems not to like it .. There are also other hairballs remedies such as ointments, that help to break -up the hairball so its easier to pass..

Okay...so long..till next time..meowsss!